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VIII – Puerto Vallarta, Guadalajara y Guanajuato

Etapa VIII

Puerto Vallarta, Guadalajara, Tequila, Guanajuato

Etapa VIII – Puerto Vallarta, Guadalajara, Tequila, Guanajuato

 

Puerto Vallarta

A las seis de la mañana estábamos esperando el autobús, nos dormimos en él y nos despertamos en el aeropuerto. Llegamos a México pocas horas después a casa de Armando, nuestro anfitrión en Puerto Vallarta.
Nos dió la bienvenida y nos mostró la enorme casa. Por la noche nos sacó de paseo y tomamos nuestros primeros tacos en una taquería callejera. Serían los primeros de muchos.
El único día que pasamos en Puerto Vallarta lo dedicamos a pasear por sus calles. Caminamos hasta la playa y compré una tuba, una bebida de palma de coco fermentada, que se sirve con hielo, manzana y frutos secos. Continuamos caminando hacia el viejo Vallarta, el barrio antiguo. Lo recorrimos todo andando y a la hora de volver a casa tomamos un autobús urbano. 

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco

Salimos más tarde camino del barrio del Pitillal, nada frecuentado por turistas. Ya llevaba unos dos meses de viaje y mi pelo no cumplía mis poco exigentes estándares estilísticos, asi que cuando ví la peluquería Pitillal no pude evitar cortarme el pelo por 35 pesos (algo menos de 2 euros al cambio). Volvimos a casa paseando tranquilamente y compramos unos tacos para llevar.
Alberto, nuestro anfitrión para el día siguiente en Guadalajara, nos contactó informando que no había podido conseguir a nadie para darnos las llaves al día siguiente y poder entrar en su casa, una faena, así que buscamos un plan B de alojamiento.

 

Guadalajara

A las 6 sonó el despertador y fuimos al punto de partida del colectivo que nos llevaría a Guadalajara. Unas cinco horas tomaron para llegar y después el bus 646 nos llevaría a casa de Elena, nuestro plan B. Elena había descartado nuestra candidatura a alojarnos con ella anteriormente ya que tenía planes todos los días, pero cuando le comentamos el problema no dudó en abrirnos las puertas de su casa.
Nos presentamos en la puerta de su casa y nos dió la bienvenida. Después de comer nos llevó a conocer San Pedro Tlaquepaque, una de las ciudades que forman parte de la zona metropolitana de Guadalajara.

Acompañamientos carne, Tlaquepaque
Acompañamientos carne, Tlaquepaque

Al día siguiente nos llevó a conocer Tonalá, otro de los pueblos que componen el enorme área de Guadalajara. Hay mucho comercio y artesanía, sobre todo alfarería. Insistía en que teníamos que probar la carne guisada en su jugo, así que nos llevó a un restaurante que conocía donde la hacían rica. La carne se presentó en una fuente de buen tamaño con bastante caldo, otra fuente llena de tortillas y una tercera que tenía varios platitos donde había limas cortadas, frijol machacado, guacamole, rábano en rodajas, salsa picante y cebolla asada. De postre probamos la jericalla, una especie de flan de huevo que se hornea de más en su parte superior para que se queme por arriba.
Recogimos las cosas y fuimos en autobús durante una hora al centro de Guadalajara, donde Alberto por fin nos esperaba. Su novia vino después y salimos a cenar a un mercado que se monta los fines de semana en la plaza al lado del templo Expiatorio. Al llegar a casa todos nos rendimos a las sábanas.
Habíamos buscado un tour gratuito para recorrer Guadalajara, así que a las 10:30 de la mañana estábamos en la Plaza de la Liberación, junto con dos americanos y Santiago, quien fue nuestro guía durante un par de horas y nos explicó muchos de los monumentos, edificios e historia de la ciudad.

Penacho maya, Tonalá, Guadalajara

Comimos una torta ahogada, plato típico de la región. Una torta viene siendo un bocadillo, sólo que lo rellenan de los distintos guisados y lo bañan, bien bañado, en una especie de salsa de tomate, lo que hace que el pan se vaya deshaciendo y haya de comerse con cuchara.

Como nos había cundido bastante la mañana decidimos coger el metro y acercarnos a Zapopan, otra de las ciudades que conforman el área metropolitana. No pudimos hacer mejor, ya que allí se estaba celebrando un festival gastronómico, con música, comidas, dulces y chocolates en la calle.

Probamos allí el tejuino con nieve de limón, otra bebida típica. La nieve de limón es sorbete de limón y el tejuino es una bebida fermentada de maíz de color marrón poco apetecible, al que se le añaden también el zumo de unos limones y sal. A gusto se le puede echar chile o salsa picante, cosa que no hicimos. Isa no lo escupió por educación y respeto a la señora que nos lo preparó y yo, ya que lo había pagado, me lo tomé, pero no creo que repitiese.

Bailes mayas, Zapopan
Bailes mayas, Zapopan

Llegamos a la basílica de Nuestra Señor de Zapopan, donde estaba teniendo lugar en su recinto exterior una serie de bailes mayas, muy movido, colorido y rítmico al son de los tambores. Los bailarines iban casi en taparrabos, pero con bonitos atuendos y penachos llenos de plumas, también llevaban coloridos motivos en las muñecas y en los tobillos. Era muy exigente físicamente, se agachaban y se levantaban sin parar y no cesaron en casi una hora que por allí estuvimos curioseando.
Volvimos a casa de Alberto y salimos a la plaza del Expiatorio de nuevo a por la cena. Para probar más cosas, a los ya habituales tacos, añadimos unas quesadillas y unos sopes de pierna. Esto venía siendo una bola aplanada de masa de maíz la cual rellenas en el centro con lo que quieras, se fríe y se sirve cubierto de lechuga, queso y salsa.

 

Tequila  

Por la mañana nos lanzamos a las calles de Guadalajara, mochila a la espalda. Pero sólo la mochila pequeña, nuestro destino era la central camionera (de bus). Llegamos justo a tiempo para subirnos en un autobús que estaba a punto de salir hacia Tequila. Tardamos dos horas en cubrir el trayecto que en coche se hace en la mitad, y llegamos a Tequila. En el pueblo se encuentran muchas destilerías del famoso licor, siendo la de José Cuervo la más importante. Digamos que sería el equivalente a las bodegas de González Byass en Jerez.

Catedral de Guadalajara, Jalisco
Catedral de Guadalajara, Jalisco

Contratamos un tour que nos llevaría a conocer todo el proceso de creación del elixir. Subimos en un ridículo vehículo con forma de barril en el que, junto con veinte personas más, tratábamos de aguzar el oído para escuchar a la guía, que recitaba de memoria como un papagayo y a la velocidad de la luz. Nos llevaron primero por el pueblo, enseñándonos algunos lugares emblemáticos. De allí fuimos a unos campos de agave, donde pudimos observar de cerca las plantas. Acabamos el tour en la destilería, donde hubo una cata con unos seis u ocho tipos de tequilas (no lo recuerdo… ). Mi preferido fue el añejo envejecido con frutos secos. Tres horas de vuelta en el que dormitamos entre agaves azules y un tráfico del infierno pusieron el cierre a nuestro día tequilero.

Campos de Agave, Tequila, Jalisco
Campos de Agave, Tequila, Jalisco

Guanajuato

Octavio iba desayunando a la vez que conducía su pequeño Renault Clio, por lo que a veces tenía que dar algún volantazo. A su lado, en el asiento del copiloto, Carlos, no paraba de darle conversación. Estos dos mexicanos fueron nuestros estupendos compañeros de viaje con los que habíamos contactado para ir a Guanajuato, el que era nuestro siguiente pueblo en el itinerario. Unas horas más tarde llegamos a casa de Hector, nuestro siguiente anfitrión.
Empezamos a subir la calle, cargados con los mochilones. Se veían solares vacíos llenos de restos de basura y de lo que probablemente fueran campamentos de personas sin hogar. Nuestra casa era una de las más ruinosas de la calle y, en un lateral, daba a un descampado lleno de basura. Héctor, nuestro anfitrión, no estaba. Se había marchado con su familia al norte del país un par de días antes, pero me había mandado la ubicación de donde podría encontrar la llave para entrar en casa. Metí la mano donde me dijo y ¡bingo!, teníamos la llave. Abrí la puerta y entramos. Vimos una niña y enseguida vino su madre a ver quien era. La chica nos saludó y le dije que éramos amigos de Héctor.

Calles de Guanajuato
Calles de Guanajuato

Era una casa muy humilde donde vivían al menos cinco o seis personas más, al menos dos eran mayores y una tercera, la que nos dió la calurosa bienvenida, tenía dos hijas. Cada día que pasamos allí vimos a personas nuevas, por lo que no sé decir cuántas personas habitaban allí. Nuestra habitación estaba prácticamente dentro de la cocina, por lo que entraban los olores de todo lo que los demás cocinaban.
Como teníamos tres días allí y era un pueblo pequeño reducimos un par de marchas a nuestra velocidad habitual. Nos dedicamos a pasear, a respirar y a integrarnos en el lugar. Dimos esa tarde un paseo tranquilamente. El pueblo es alegre, calmado y con vida, con muchas tiendecitas y sin supermercados. Compramos medio kilo de carne al pastor en un puesto de la calle y medio kilo de tortillas amarillas en una tortillería artesanal. Nos hinchamos a tacos en casa haciéndolos a nuestro gusto.

Escalinatas en Guanajuato
Escalinatas en Guanajuato

A la mañana siguiente no había manera de que saliera agua caliente de esa ducha carcelaria. No quedaba más remedio que tomar una buena inhalación profunda y aguantar el chorro helado gritando hacia dentro. Yo lo tuve más o menos fácil, pero a Isa le tocaba lavarse el pelo. Acabó mareada, con una tiritera de caballo y con los labios amoratados.
Nos lanzamos con tranquilidad a visitar Guanajuato. Los adoquines irregulares de las calles ponían a prueba los tobillos mejor entrenados. Guanajuato es una ciudad tranquila si la comparamos con Guadalajara. Tiene algo de tráfico en su arteria principal, pero el resto de la ciudad la componen pequeñas calles y estrechos callejones llenos de peldaños que se encaraman por las laderas de las montañas que lo rodean. Una curiosidad es que el pueblo (o ciudad, ya que es la capital del estado del mismo nombre) cuenta con una serie de túneles por debajo por donde corre el tráfico rodado. Los túneles son antiguos y están hechos de piedra, con bonitos arcos que sujetan el techo. Merece la pena un paseo aunque sea en el autobús urbano para observarlos.

Túneles de Guanajuato
Túneles de Guanajuato

Comimos una enchilada minera, propia de Guanajuato, y unas quesadillas. Una enchilada digamos que es una especie de rollito hecho de maíz que puede ir relleno de queso, pollo u otro tipo de carne. Sobre este se echa alguna salsa que suele incluir chile. La de Guanajuato se diferencia de las demás por llevar papas y zanahorias hervidas. Al atardecer me llevé la cámara de fotos y el trípode para hacer algunas fotos nocturnas. De camino a casa un vendedor me ofreció probar los chapulines, que vienen siendo grillos que se fríen y luego se comen «como pipas» con sal, limón y chile. En mi caso, el amable chico me puso cuatro en la mano y él cogió otros cuatro. Se los echó todos al gaznate y yo imité su movimiento. Una pata de grillo se me quedó en la comisura de los labios, por lo que tuve que empujarla hacia dentro. Mastiqué, crujieron y me imaginé como los insectos eran triturados entre mis dientes. Tragué. Le di unos pesos de propina y nos fuimos.

Plaza San Fernando, Guanajuato
Plaza San Fernando, Guanajuato

Al día siguiente nos levantamos y salimos a por algo de desayuno. Lo primero que encontré apetecible fueron chalupas. Una especie de tortilla pequeña de maíz frita que se rellena con frijoles, cebolla, col y salsa picante. Empezamos a alejarnos de la zona más céntrica y cogimos los estrechos y laberínticos callejones que salían en ramificación desde las calles principales. Llegó la hora de comer e Isa optó por una torta de aguacate a la que acabó añadiendo una milanesa de res (ternera). Yo compré una guacamaya, platillo tradicional del lugar. Venía siendo un bocadillo de lo que aquí llaman chicharrón, lo que en España es conocido como corteza de cerdo. Como base lleva aguacate y luego se le añade limón, sal y salsa picante.
Continuamos hacia el mirador del Pípila. Teníamos dos opciones, el funicular o veinte minutos de escalones por los coloridos callejones. No había duda, optamos por hacerlo caminando. Tuvimos que hacer varias paradas para coger aire y llegamos al mirador subiendo completamente solos. Una vez llegamos estaba media ciudad arriba. Desde el mirador se veía precioso el colorido pueblo.

Panorámica de Guanajuato
Panorámica de Guanajuato

Por la noche salimos al mercado que teníamos al lado de casa a por algo rápido de cenar. Elegimos a un señor con pocas ganas de trabajar que vendía unos poco sugerentes perritos calientes. Con las mismas manos que cogía las salchichas manoseaba el dinero, por lo que poco después un servidor estaba con dolores de estómago, aunque creo que tampoco ayudaron el desayuno picante o la guacamaya con salsa de la comida.
Por la noche me desperté escuchando el crujir de unas ramas en el solar que estaba al lado de nuestra ventana. Me levanté, miré por encima y cuál fue mi sorpresa al descubrir que se estaban quemando los rastrojos del descampado. Ante la cercana y real posibilidad de que se hiciera más grande y tuviéramos que desalojar la casa hicimos las maletas a las cuatro de la mañana. Me quedé haciendo guardia vigilando el fuego, que por suerte se fue apagando y decidió, por algún motivo, no prender los árboles que allí había.

 

Continuará… 

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